Winter is dreaming time for me but this year I’m starting a little early and fantasizing more often.
So what do I dream about during the cold and snow and weeks on end of winter inversions producing our almost reliably gunky air? My bird photography camping trips to destinations as wild, remote and far away from “civilization” as I can find them. And in a typical camping season those trips usually include anywhere from 3-5 forays to my favorite destination on the planet – the Centennial Valley and vicinity of southwest Montana.
But as regular readers probably know I haven’t been there since two summers ago because of issues with my health. We always camp out in the middle of nowhere because I despise crowded, noisy campgrounds and much prefer dispersed camping with no neighbors, great views and access to wildness but given my recent health challenges I can be pretty vulnerable in situations like that. But I’m finally seeing signs, subtle as they are, that at least some of those health issues may be improving so I’m dreaming, literally at night and daydreaming during the day, about Montana trips next spring and summer.
Since that’s where my mind and heart are these days it’s also the subject of this post.
This scene and this sign should give you a feeling for what it’s like to approach the Centennial Valley from the east, from the vicinity of Yellowstone NP which I avoid like the plague because of the insufferable crowds. From this spot we only get a hint of the valley itself – those very far off mountains you can barely see behind the lone conifer to the left of the sign are mountains that rim parts of the valley.
As you can imagine it takes some serious planning and a significant investment in camping gear to spend a week or more up here when you’re this far away from food and water supplies, gas, vehicle breakdown repairs and even medical help. In most areas cell phone coverage is nonexistent and even something as basic as getting a flat tire repaired is a major undertaking.
I once had 4 combined flats on my pickup and camping trailer on a single trip to the valley which is why I have 10 ply tires on my pickup now and haven’t had one since. The road is in good shape in this spot but in others, beware – especially in spring and early summer. It’s been improved in the last several years but I have mixed feelings about that. There’s been talk about having it paved but the locals, mostly ranchers, shot that proposal down and I could kiss every last one of them for that!
This is a fairly typical sunrise from the campsite we’ve most often used at Lower Red Rock Lake. This is the time of morning we usually leave camp to look for birds and wildlife so I’ve seen it often, very often, but it never fails to blow me away. On those rare mornings when we leave camp a little later I can enjoy this view out the picture window of my camping trailer while enjoying my morning coffee and Mia’s company as we both put the final touches on our blog posts just prior to publication (usually we can barely get enough cell signal to publish them here – other times we’re just SOL).
The stars at night – there simply are no words. And that delicious quiet except for the birds and frogs is to die for.
When we leave camp to look for birds and other wildlife at just about this time of morning as we nearly always do…
this is what I see in front of me as dawn is beginning to break while I’m driving the three miles or so to the south toward South Valley Road and access to the rest of the vast valley, including Red Rock Lakes National Wildlife Refuge. These marshes, wet prairies and sagebrush flats are often loaded with both birds and pronghorn and even the occasional small band of elk. And there’s almost limitless wild and spectacular country to explore in every direction, including the much higher and more dramatic mountains to the east. I’ve been exploring the valley and nearby areas for ten years now and still haven’t seen it all.
For the last several days I’ve actually been working hard on a project related to this destination and to these photos. My ex-wife hated my “projects” (her word, not mine and yes we’re still very good friends) because I was always consumed by them for days on end at the expense of everything else and I’ll admit she was right. So, as is my habit I’m consumed by this one too, although it’s been exhausting and both physically and emotionally challenging.
It’s a little premature to reveal what it is but I hope to do so soon since it relates to my bird photography, my blogging and to the Centennial Valley by extension.
And now you know at least a little more about the inspiration for my dreaming and for this blog post. Hopefully the rest of the story will follow soon but that could still go either way.
Ron
What a lovely blog post! Yes, Edward Abbey would have agreed that some places need to be left alone and not paved. But why is the winter air where you live “gunky”? Some kind of inversion between mountains, perhaps? Hoping you spend the winter getting stronger and stronger for your trip.
Elizabeth, it’s because of inversions that occur in our valleys when temps are cold and the air is still. When there’s snow on the ground it can last for weeks. Sometimes Park City, very close to us but at a much higher elevation, is over 20 degrees warmer than us and their air is crystal clear while we can barely see across the street.
Thanks Ron. The difference that altitude and geography can make is amazing. I wonder whether grade school and high school students are learning about the reasons for the changing weather and climate in their hometowns. I once gave my students a Bio-Regional quiz (from a text I was using in a literature course), asking them to find the answers to questions such as: 1. Trace the water you drink from precipitation to tap 2. What was the total rainfall in your area last year? 3. Name 5 edible plants in your area 4. Name 5 resident and 5 migratory birds in your area. 6. What primary ecological event/process influenced the land form where you live? They had to find where they could find the answers and then do so, if possible.
An adventure. Something to look forward to. To be able to do what you are good at and love to do. Share these things with people in images and stories. I look forward to seeing and reading about your Montana trips past and in the future.
Thanks very much, Lyle. I hope those trips actually happen.
My kind of place. Beautiful. I’m pulling for you!
I appreciate that, Jean. Thank you.
Fingers and toes crossed your dreams come true. For you, and for us as observers (which is a selfish truth). Health issues which diminish your horizons outsuck Dyson.
Thanks for the good wishes, EC.
No wonder you like it so much! What a gorgeous surrounding!
Charlotte
It truly is. Thanks, Charlotte.
Oh! Ron! How sadly I know how it feels not to be able to visit, to camp in beautiful,wild, remote, QUIET, PEOPLE-FREE places!!! I am so, SO sorry you are having to deal with this, too…it’s an itch that just won’t go away…Beautiful images like these are very much appreciated, even though they remind me of what I literally ache to experience again…and know I never will! I hope with all my heart, that you are luckier…It’s soul-crushing not to be able to go to thise places, to restore your soul’s batteries and your zest for being alive.
Yup, you get it, Patty. I knew you would…
Today I will walk out, today everything unnecessary will leave me, I will be as I was before, I will have a cool breeze over my body. I will have a light body, I will be forever happy, nothing will hinder me.
I walk with Beauty below me.
I walk with Beauty above me.
I walk with Beauty all around me.
My words will be Beautiful.
In Beauty, all day long, may I walk.
Through the returning seasons, may I walk.
On the trail marked with pollen, may I walk.
With dew about my feet, may I walk.
With Beauty before me, may I walk.
With Beauty behind me, may I walk.
With Beauty below me, may I walk.
With Beauty above me, may I walk.
With Beauty all around me, may I walk.
In old age wandering a trail of Beauty,
lively, may I walk.
In old age wandering a trail of Beauty,
living again, may I walk.
It is finished in Beauty.
It is finished in Beauty.
Aho.
Amen to this beauty way, beautiful Navajo prayer…a prayer for you, Ron…Aho…
Lovely words, Martha. “In old age wandering a trail of beauty” caught my eye in particular…
Ron,
Explore and enjoy; we all benefit from your experiences. We all hope your health allows you many more trips like these.
Best,
Stephen
Much appreciated, Stephen.
Working on such “projects” is what keeps many of us going! Having reached that time in life it has certainly become jarringly apparent I can’t do what I used to, much more care in planning is needed. (I told my wife we are not “senior citizens”, rather, “classics”, and all classics need more care to maintain their value!)
We hope your health issues diminish and will allow you the freedom to explore, create and, to be quite selfish, continue to share your world.
Thanks, Wally. I’m a “classic” from this day forward!
Lovely pictures of Montana. Wyoming is my first love then Montana. We all need projects to help get us thru the cold, snow, and windy months. The spring and summer months go by pretty fast. Glad you are feeling much better. After having knee surgery again, I am ready to get out and try to enjoy the mountains again next summer. It is only 6 months away. Keep on with your work till then.
As you know Montana and Wyoming have quite a bit in common, Trudy – most of it good. Thanks for the good wishes.
Best of health, and thank you for “taking us along” on this adventure
Thank you, Elmer.
After the teaser you’ve posted today, I’m excited to see what’s coming, Ron.
It may not be long, Nancy. I hope you aren’t disappointed but it’s very exciting for me.
I’m ready! Got my truck, plenty of gas, camera and camping stuff ready to go!!!!!
Twenty years ago I’d be ready – your a man after my own heart!
If I didn’t have such an attachment to the East and the coast and saltwater we probably would have moved somewhere in the Rockies. Just outstandingly beautiful country! I have to be honest, when we camped out west and hit Montana, I hadn’t looked at the map, but when you drive in Montana there is a reason it is called BIG SKY country and I knew when I was in Montana – just loved it!
“there is a reason it is called BIG SKY country and I knew when I was in Montana”
Exactly, Dick. That big sky is like nowhere else I’ve been. Growing up with it in MT I used to take it for granted but no more…
West Texas, when you get away from the cities, is also big sky country. It is made more interesting by landscape that was clearly once the ocean floor.
This was fabulous, professor. Those sunrises must be something else.
They are, Arwen. Sunsets are no kick in the pants either.
I understand all too well, unfortunately, how hard it is to be kept by health issues from doing what you love most. My husband has developed bone spurs in his left hip that make walking difficult, so it has severely limited our time out at the park, which is the place I love most on the planet. I hope that your health issues resolve enough that you can get back to camping in Montana. The things we love that much are what keep us going. Whoever said that growing old isn’t for sissies was speaking the truth. Even though I am not a camper, I can see from your photos why the Centennial Valley appeals so much to you.
“The things we love that much are what keep us going.”
When we have health issues that’s absolutely true, Susan. I wish the best for your husband and his bone spurs.
What a beautiful sunrise and flat out beautiful place to camp and explore for birds and other wildlife. But as you say, definitely not the kind of place you want to camp out unless you are 100% prepared. If they paved that road it would change everything. It would never again be as you describe it. Sure hope you are able to enjoy it once again.
Everett Sanborn
Prescott Arizona
Preparation and planning for those trips are vital, Everett. On my first trip or two to the area I sure learned some stuff about that!
As I have been saying for many years now, that cabin in the middle of now where with the nearest neighbor 10 miles away is looking better every second. We almost bought one in August but it did not work out. Still searching.
A careful search is important, April – it’s a big decision. Good luck with yours.
Very glad to hear that you’re dreaming your dreams and planning your trips again. That’s what its all about. Looks like you are dreaming very well. Congratulations and many happy returns to your dreams and destinations.
Cheers
Thanks very much, Dave.
Truly beautiful country out west. That sunrise is spectacular but your last photo is to die for! The horizontal levels of colors are indescribable, it is something you have to see to appreciate. Three years ago I did a solo three week drive out to Missoula (to visit a friend) through the upper tier of states down through Utah to the Phoenix area for another visit and through the mid-section home to Wisconsin…5282 miles. I plotted most of it on two lane highways and everyday was a surprise. Montana was my favorite…if Lake Superior could somehow be planted in Montana…well I think that would be as close to ‘heaven on earth’ we could get! The colors of Utah and Arizona are spectacular. I will be anxious to see your ‘project’ photos…most likely they will leave me wanting to plan a third trip.
It sounds like your trip was quite an adventure, Kathy.
I’m glad you appreciated that last photo. I once encountered a newborn (still wet from birth) pronghorn fawn at almost the exact spot where that photo was taken and at the same time of morning too. The fawn was right next to me and I’ll never forget it.
“Big Sky Country” 🙂 I’ve never visited that area of the state – it’s gorgeous – but there are many others as you well know! 😉 Looking forward to your “project” and, hopefully, you will be able to make the trip to the Centennial Valley this spring. YES to the farmers/ranchers who were wise enough to know the headaches a paved road would bring them….not to mention “pavement breakup” and VERY unhappy folks on both sides with inappropriate vehicles/running out of gas etc. 😉 Some areas just need to be left the hell alone! Gorgeous photo’s Ron. 🙂
“Some areas just need to be left the hell alone!”
Concisely and precisely said, Judy. That’s it in a nutshell!
Great post, Ron. It looks like heaven on earth! I look forward to seeing the outcome of your project. I am sure it will be great.
Thank you, Ed. Based on all the time you’ve spent in Alaska I especially enjoyed your “heaven on earth” observation.
I am living for the time I can do an overnight stay there. It is so beautiful and untouched. The Milky way and the Perseid meteor showers would be unbelievable. The three hours I spent there were really magical.
I can tell by your words that you’ve been there, Suzanne. I simply adore my trips to that area.
Sunrise…absolutely breathtaking.
It truly is, Cheryl. And scenes like that are fairly reliable too. Thank you.