In early 2008 I was a frustrated novice photographer. I had recently invested heavily in an expensive “bird lens” and switched over from shooting in JPEG to RAW all in an effort to get high quality shots but it just wasn’t happening. My images were not as sharp as they should be and I couldn’t figure out why. I had joined an online nature photography critique forum (Nature Photographers Network) and posted images there regularly in an effort to improve my skills but it seemed like I had reached a plateau above which I couldn’t ascend. And then this Northern Flicker and a kind stranger came along.
1/800, f/9, ISO 500, 500 f/4, 1.4 tc, not baited, set up or called in
I typically find flickers extremely difficult to get close to but this one was an exception. It was clinging to the side of a maple tree in my front yard on a cold March morning and let me get very close (this image is full frame). I took dozens of shots of the bird because I was hand-holding my very heavy lens in low light and framing it vertically was tough (I was too inexperienced to even think of taking off my tc). I was so excited to get a full frame shot of a flicker that I immediately posted it to NPN for critique, despite the fact that the lighting angle isn’t ideal and there’s an out of focus branch coming out of the neck of the flicker. The image was received fairly well but not as enthusiastically as I had hoped.
Then out of the blue I received a private email from Dave Sparks, an NPN member whose name I barely recognized. Dave gently suggested that my images weren’t living up to their potential because of issues with my sharpening technique. Since I had switched over to shooting RAW I didn’t know what I was doing in processing, sharpening in particular. That initial email developed into an extended conversation where Dave coached me through a sharpening technique that I’ve been using ever since with only minor modifications.
Since that time long ago Dave and I have become good friends, though we’ve still never met (he lives in Florida). Dave admitted to me that he was hesitant to reach out like he did because he didn’t know how I would recieve the suggestion that my images weren’t as sharp as they should be (some photographers are notoriously thin-skinned about things like that) but he took the chance and I’ll be forever grateful.
So thank you, Dave Sparks. Your willingness to risk made a huge difference in my photography.
Ron
Okay, let’s see. I need a better camera and a better lens. I need to learn to use processing software better and I need to know all about various bird species. I seem to be missing something…….oh, yes, patience!
Sigh. I don’t have a chance. I’ll just keep living vicariously through Ron and Mia!
Thank you, Ron, so much for your generosity in sharing techniques and proving that true quality is possible.
That bird has one stunning outfit! And to think that Mom always told me that you can’t wear spots and stripes together! Thank you,Ron!
Even flickers know that rules are meant to be broken, Mikal…
This has been a very enjoyable read with so many interesting, funny and informative comments. Ron, I’ve written down your settings/technique for Unsharp Mask and will give it a try. Thank you very much for sharing this information – just typing it all down must have been a chore!
I’m always impressed by others success using camouflage and blinds. I’ve wrapped myself in government issue camouflage and sat on a little stool for hours and tucked myself into difficult to reach, queer little corners I thought would give me cover and didn’t get a thing for my trouble. I’ve found walking around with my camera and tripod provides the widest range of motion and ease of movement and opportunities for a photo.
Kelly, I think that the methods one uses to get close to birds are highly dependent on the situation in your area. For example, in some areas (Florida for example) shorebirds and waders can be very easy to approach so you often don’t need long lenses or stealth of any kind. I have a blind but rarely (if ever) use it. In my area it’s much more effective to use my “mobile blind” (my pickup). Only the photographer, through trial and error, can determine what method works best in what situation.
Wow, what a great shot! And appreciate you sharing the masking and sharpening technique.Thanks, Ron.
Thank you, Jane.
A really interesting post and comments. Apart from seeing Ron’s beautiful images, I enjoy reading the exchanges between a variety of people here – and it’s great to know we all have challenges!
I enjoy those exchanges too, Sonja.
Ron:
I’m picking my wife up at the Albuquerque airport on Monday. Then we head for Denver. I take her to the Albuquerque airport on Dec. 3 and then head for Bosque on my way back to Pensacola. Bill Leggett will be there and we will spend some time shooting together.
Dave
I see that Keith Bauer will be there that week also. You guys should have a good old time. Please tell them both hello for me.
Thank you Ron – and Dave. I am always in awe when I visit here – glorious birds and so much avian and photographic knowledge to attempt to absorb.
What a nice compliment, Elephant’s Child – not only for me but for all the others who contribute to this site and there are many.
In response to some inquiries in comments below about sharpening, here’s the technique I typically use (basically the one I learned from Dave years ago). This technique presumes processing in Photoshop (I use CS6) or Photoshop Elements which should work just about the same as full PS (I haven’t processed in Elements for quite some time but I used to). I have no experience with processing in other programs.
First I crop and resize the RAW file and make any minor exposure adjustments, all in ACR (Adobe Camera Raw – it comes with Photoshop). Typically if I’m preparing the image for the web I resize anywhere between 720 and 1200 pixels on the long side. My blog post images are 900 pixels on the long side.
Then I convert to jpeg and pull the image into PS for sharpening (usually I do no other processing). I always sharpen the bird selectively by carefully masking it first. This has several advantages over global sharpening – it will prevent “sharpening halos” and it also prevents an increase in noise in the background which sharpening can cause. Masking can be tedious but it’s worth it. Once you’ve learned to use the many selection tools in PS, the process of masking becomes much easier and quicker.
I use the “Unsharp Mask” tool for sharpening with the settings at: Amount 125%, Radius .3, Threshold 0. Photoshop has other sharpening tools but this is the one I prefer. Typically I apply 1-2 rounds at that setting but 2 full rounds is nearly always way too much so after I’ve sharpened twice I go to edit, fade unsharp mask and move the slider back by percentage until the sharpening looks “right” to my eye. An average amount of sharpening for me at these settings is probably about 1.3 rounds but the amount really depends on the image (when I’m sharpening an image for printing I sharpen more than I do for web presentation)
Too much sharpening will make the image look “crinkly”. Practice and experience will he helpful in spotting oversharpening. It’s important to note that no amount of sharpening will “cure” an image that came out of the camera significantly soft.
If I have whites within the mask that show very little detail and are already quite bright I remove those whites from the mask before sharpening because: a, there’s no detail there to sharpen anyway and b, sharpening will make the already bright whites even brighter.
All this presumes that in-camera sharpening settings have been turned off. I want to have control over the amount of sharpening. I’m of the opinion that all images in that situation can benefit from at least some sharpening.
That’s what I do. Others use different techniques and settings that also work well.
One more thing – unless my image has been taken in very low light I avoid increasing saturation or contrast while processing. In my opinion, oversaturation is the most common way folks ruin their nature images. Some of them actually hurt my eyes…
Ron:
That “kind stranger” is now stuck in a motel room in Albuquerque waiting for the weather to improve. This is part of the “Denver short route” from Pensacola. Headed for Denver for a family Thanksgiving. It has been an adventure with not many decent photos to show for it. The mosquitoes were so thick I was reluctant to roll down the window to take a photo in southeast Texas and the drought has seriously affected the winter birding in the panhandle of Texas. As I approached one lake that should be teeming with waterfowl and shorebirds, I thought it was curious that a mist was rising from the water. The mist was dust. The animal I saw crossing the lake was a tumbleweed and a dust devil soon followed.
I’m so glad I “reached out” about the sharpening technique. Since those early conversations, I’ve profited significantly from studying your photos, camera settings, and your comments about technique on your blog. And I derive a lot of pleasure just looking at the photos you and Mia post.
Dave
Sounds like you’ve had a challenging trip, Dave. You didn’t mention Bosque, bet you took it in, or will.
To this day I often think of you when I’m sharpening. I’m of the personality type that if I can’t do something well I often give up on it and go to something else that I’m better at (not necessarily an admirable trait). You may very well have saved me from a major failure and for that I thank you.
I’d be interested to hear what your sharpening technique is, if you are willing to share that. I have to say I do minimal sharpening (in Lightroom) and only go beyond that if printing. Was just reviewing some images of a Black turnstone taken yesterday and am disappointed with the sharpness, but I think it is an “in camera” problem. Was using a TC, which always sacrifices sharpness to some extent.
For Ellen, though I don’t have the lens myself, I’ve head that the Nikon 80-400 lens is not particularly sharp, especially at the long end (unless you have the new version, which is supposed to be better). That could be part of the problem.
Justine, I’ve shared the method, above.
Hello Ron, I have been reading your blog for almost a month now, and I have never noticed any sharpness issues here. But as you are saying, I perfectly understand the problem, I am mostly trying my hand in nature photography, I shoot in RAW, and I am kind of clueless about sharpening.
I use one method that I’ve learnt online, but I don’t like the result at all. Will be happy if you can guide me about it. I use Elements 11 for editing.
Rima, since you use Elements you should be able to use the method (or very close to it) that I’ve outlined above.
Thank you Ron! I am trying to find the features in my Elements. Let’s see.
I LOVE this image…had an old, red, Crusher hat I always wore backpacking in the Mountains. I didn’t feel complete unless I had safety pins, a clevis pin, a toggle and my Flicker feather tucked in the headband…still have hat, feather etc., and my trusty old bamboo hiking stick…but now I’m too old, fat and falling apart to walk any where, much less hike up rough, steep trails with a heavy pack…NUTS!
Neat that you still have that feather, Patty. “Nuts” reminded me of General McAuliffe’s response to the Germans when they asked him to surrender at the Battle of the Bulge 🙂
Interesting!!! I don’t know where I’d be if my online friends hadn’t occasionally lent a hand to steer me and my little photography boat onto a different course. I can name these wonderful people, myself, and have made every effort to always keep in touch with them. They are my angels and mentors!!
I went through a period as a novice where I over-sharpened. I’ve since developed a horror of that problem, and may occasionally go in the other direction. Depending on the image, I usually just run a high-pass, and leave it at that … so I’ll be watching this thread like a hawk … yes pun intended … to learn more!!!! Thanks in advance!!
I agree, Lois – oversharpening can certainly ruin an image. I still have to be careful not to do it…
Ron, I’m sure we learn from you not only techniques but dedication to growing and learning. Thanks for the breadth of your sharing.
I appreciate the kind words, Alison.
Ellen and Ingrid, I’m heading out the door right now to go shooting (if the light cooperates). I’ll respond to your questions when I get back.
Ron, is the sharpening technique proprietary or do you ever share it? I first learned from a Scott Kelby tutorial (Photoshop) but I’m using Lightroom and Nik now and I’m always curious about how far others push the sharpening parameters. Of course it would also help if I wasn’t too lazy to carry my tripod (lol). Thanks for posting this. 🙂
We need help Ron!! 🙂
Ingrid (and Ellen)- I’ve posted the sharpening technique I use above.
Ron, that is exactly the problen I have been having since I got the D800 Nikon. I have an 80 to 4oo lens on it. But my shots are not as sharp as they should be. And after looking at your wonderful photography I thought I would just give up and live through viewing your shots. I always used to shoot in Raw with my old D80. Have not switched to raw on this camera. I will be doing so now to see if that helps. Of course Idon’t have your lens. I don’t even have a TC. I do have Northern Flickers on occassion!! Since I can no longer work, my entire creative outlet has been my photography. Thanks for this story. I have renewed hope. I need a teacher like you.
Ellen
Ellen, Mia has your lens (along with the 200-400) and she has taken many excellent shots with it. It’s a perfectly acceptable lens, especially if you’re close to your subject.
Thanks Ron. I was just on line looking at a Nikon TC. I called the place and they told me it wouldn’t work with my 80-400 lens. I just want to get closer and closer to my birds!!! Tanks for all the info. I need to keep practicing.
They’re right, Ellen. A tc won’t work with that lens and still maintain autofocus.
So do you always manually focus?
No, I never manually focus. A 1.4 tc works with my lens because it’s an f/4 lens. Your zoom lens is f/4.5-5.6 so it won’t work with a tc. I once tried manual focus with a 2.0 tc and hated it. Sold that tc within weeks.
Thank you Ron.
Ellen, to get closer to your birds there are two good options:
500mm Prime Lens with TC ($6,000)
2-man hunting blind ($60)
Sure, I wish I could drop several grand on a lens right now, but I bet Ron would agree that getting physically closer always beats using a longer lens.
I’ve sat in a blind and had birds come within 20 feet of me. I’ve laid in the mud under a camo blanket and had shore birds actually land right next to me. Patience, and learning something about your subjects, makes the outing an adventure, and each encounter special.
You hit the nail(s) on the head, Bruce.
I agree with everything you said, except I think you’d be lucky to find a new 500mm prime for only 6 grand. Canon’s new 500mm is over $10,000 and Nikon is usually even more expensive.
I’d also add one word to your advice – “patience”. Bird photography often requires loads of it.
Edit – Oops, I just now noticed that you DID use the word “patience”, Bruce.
I have a lot of patience on most occasions. I just hate missing the shot or getting a lousy shot. In the summer I’m always looking to take new and exciting hummingbird captures. But I have had a problem with my D800 eveyr since I bought a year ago. I actually did better with my old D80. I just don’t understand why. Tahnsk for all the advice. And yes I think a 500 mm lens is in the $9,000 dollar range and upwards. theNikon has an 700mm lens that is just off the charts!!
LOL!! I looked at a 500 prime lens. I don’t think in my lifetime!!! But I got my 400 used from the Nikon outlet for a great price. So you never know. I physically can’t go out hiking on stretching out on the ground. Really wish I could. I LOVE this site!!! Ron, you are the BEST!!